There was a more sensual element to the clothes, with strategically placed slashes on skirts, suits and bodysuits providing flashes of skin, while retaining McQueen’s trademark edginess. Tuxedo suits were reworked into structured jumpsuits in black and red, with necklines that plunged down to the waist and backs that were left entirely bare. Burton continued her exploration of artfully deconstructed suiting, most strikingly in a black one-shouldered dress with an exposed corset and a skirt that looked as if a tuxedo jacket had been slashed up and reassembled at random. This consistency was carried through to the collection itself. The reuse of the custom-built venue was a nod to the label's commitment to sustainability and provided a welcome antidote to the Insta-grabbing, novelty-driven gimmicks of some brands during recent fashion weeks. Inside the buildings and on the site’s grassy grounds, students gathered to catch a glimpse of the show’s celebrity guests, cheering at the sight of Janet Jackson, Lara Stone, Letitia Wright, Maria Sharapova and crowd favourite Hero Fiennes Tiffin. Perched on the banks of the Thames, McQueen’s sculptural cloud-like structure stood in stark contrast to the sturdy baroque buildings flanking it.Ī tuxedo jumpsuit with structured shoulders. This time around, it was transposed on to the grounds of the Old Royal Naval College, a Unesco World Heritage Site in London's Greenwich that was once a favoured retreat for Henry VIII and is now home, in part, to the University of Greenwich. The structure made its debut last year for the unveiling of McQueen’s spring/summer 2022 show, when it was placed at the top of a multi-storey car park in Wapping. The new collection was unveiled within a transparent bubble designed by architect Smiljan Radic (the man behind the brand's London and Dubai flagship stores). But the leitmotif was perhaps most powerful when rendered in abstract on a black mesh bodysuit covered in sequins and crystal embroidery, showcased on the runway by an inhumanly youthful-looking Naomi Campbell. Oversized eyes reappeared in red on a beautifully draped white dress and louche white suit, while miniature pupils were peppered across a voluminous ankle-length dress. It was also, perhaps, a reminder of the need for us all to be more conscious of the world around us as we emerge from the ravages of the pandemic. “The eye is a symbol of that humanity, a register of emotion, an expression of uniqueness.” “This collection is about searching for humanity and human connection,” Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen’s creative director, wrote in her show notes. The motif was drawn from Ridley Scott’s 1982 film, Blade Runner, where eyes are the ultimate differentiator between humans and robots. Its most intense - to be at one with a world that is bigger and more powerful than we are.An unblinking eye peered out from the asymmetric folds of a black dress, setting the tone for Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 2023 collection, First Sight. To give up control and be directly in touch with the unpredictable is to be part of nature, to see and feel it at Storm chasing is not only about the beauty of the views but also a sense of mystery and excitement – about embracing the fact that we can’t ever be sure of what might happen next. They inhabit the same universe and the clothes are inspired by and made for them. I love the idea of the McQueen woman being a storm chaser, of the qualities of storm chasing uniting the passionately individual community of characters wearing the clothes.
We watched the weather and captured the formation and colouration of clouds from daybreak to nightfall and documented changing patterns, from clear blue skies to more turbulent ones. The artwork for the prints in this collection was shot from the rooftops of the studio where we are lucky enough to have the most incredible views of the city: from Saint Paul’s Cathedral to the London Eye. We moved from water – and the mud on the banks of the Thames – to the sky and the ever-changing, all-encompassing magnificence that represents. “I am interested in immersing myself in the environment in which we live and work, in London, and in the elements as we experience them each day.
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